1920s Lingerie: The Best Of The Flapper Era

(This post was originally published in 2017 and updated on December 21st 2021)

The 1920s was an exciting time - the first world war had ended, people were exuberant and there was reason to celebrate. It was called the roaring twenties for good reason, the Great Gatsby, flapper dancers, prohibition, free expression, new dancing styles, the jazz era and radical new ways of dressing - the 1920s ushered in an era of modernism, glamour and liberation like never before.

This freedom was expressed in the way women dressed, a revolution had started, women were allowed to vote and dress how they wanted. Dresses were a little shorter, so legs were shown and women even dared to dress in suits which were unheard of at the time. Gone were the days of tight corsets and constricted dresses and in came slimline silhouette slip dresses adorned in sequins and beads, made for flexibility. Hair was shorter - the pixie cut or short bob was the style of choice, and makeup was bolder and more glamorous.

No other decade in recent history is as well-known for its sassiness, glamour, and style as the '20s. During this time, lingerie took on a life of its own, with highly embellished teddies, see-through négligées, and lace panties. This is because many of the new lingerie designers were inspired by the movies; this coupled with a generation of women who had just come through the first global war and women's suffrage, who wanted to be noticed as individuals.

The flappers love for luxuries and freedom meant that lingerie was now more than just a functional item. Women wanted to express their sexuality in new ways, and their desires were shown in their choice of lingerie.

Lingerie was lighter - women transitioned from the layers upon layers of petticoats, corsets and very constrictive underwear of the early 1900s to light single slips and bras, and women were liberated. Fabrics used were delicate and flowy - silk, satin, shantung, crêpe de Chine, cotton, rayon and at times were highly embellished with lace, beading and appliqués. It was a time of self-expression, liberation and glamour.

Olyinka is a brand that takes a lot of its inspiration from the 1920s and as such, wanted to share five of our favourite lingerie styles from that era, that are still available to buy today.

Stockings

Stockings in the 1920's was the must-have accessory of the time. Gone were the days when stockings were used for the purposes of warming your legs, or hidden under petticoats - stockings were, in part, there to be noticed. This was the jazz era and with all the various dance crazes emerging, dresses were lifted and legs shown, so stockings had to look good and held securely in place by suspenders. Stockings or hosiery were made from silk, wool, cotton or synthetic rayon, however the most popular fabric used in the 1920s for hosiery was lace. A little over six feet (three meters) of lace fabric was required to make one pair of stockings. The hosiery industry in the 1920s was dominated by three companies: "American Hosiery" of New York, W. B. Davis Hosiery Mill and Hanes Hosiery of Winston-Salem, North Carolina.

2. Slips/Step-In Chemise

These lightweight chemise garments were made for comfort and glamour. The desired look for women at the time was boyish and flat chested, so these slips were designed with a low, straight neckline, held together by thin straps or ribbon, embellished with lace, ribbon and buttons, which was so far removed from the "push up, bust out" lingerie of the early 1900's. The 1920's slip was made to look delicate and when combined with stockings, it provided the complete look. The step-in chemise was a variation on the slip, but with wide leg openings, and like the slips, it offered no support. It was just meant to look and feel beautiful.

3. Bandeau Bra & Knickers

The design trend for bras in the early 1920's was the boyish silhouette look, made to give the illusion of flattened breasts and gave women a more androgynous look.

These bras were called "bandeau." Bandeaus had a thin shoulder strap and no cups. Women wore bandeau bras over their camisoles and blouses, making their outfits look more fashionable and put-together.

Bandeau bras were made from silk, the most popular fabric at that time and also because it was easier to clean than other fabrics such as cotton or wool. With light support, and thin straps embellished with lace, this bra was not flattering or supportive for all breast types, but all was not lost, Maidenform, a bra company founded in 1922, filled the gap by designing and producing bras that provided support for all breast shapes. French or Cami knickers, designed like shorts, embellished with buttons, lace or ribbon, made the perfect accompaniment to the bandeau bra and also the Maidenform bra.

4. Pyjamas/Robes/Gowns

In an era of where people were carefree and very chilled, it was not uncommon to find women hanging out in their boudoirs and doing so with style. The smart set would spend hours in delicate outfits that were both elegant and sophisticated. The daytime frock was always chosen with care, as was definitely seen a true sign of taste.

Pyjamas and robes were the order of the day and the more luscious and extravagant, the better. Fabrication was very high grade, be it velvet or velvet and silk, ladies wanted glamour, luxury and refinement. Wool, cotton and linen were not enough, as women would demand embroidery on such lace, sequins or any other thread work that enhanced their silhouette but did not show through it. Also, silk was always in abundance with its soft, lightly velvety texture. So, it was essential to use the right fabrics for dressing gowns and pyjamas. The stitching detail was also a symbol of class and an indication that the lady who owned it had absolute control over her home, and a reflection of her life.

5. Corsets

Corsets or corselettes were made unboned, or lightly boned, flexible and less rigid than the Victorian style corsets of the early 1900's. These corsets were designed to accommodate the new loose flowing flapper style dresses and were worn from the bust down to the mid-thigh and had garters to connect to the stockings if required.

This style of corset reflected the age and the time of freedom of expression, so unlike the corsets of the past, women were able to bend and move around and not feel constricted in any way.

These corsets were more streamlined than their predecessors and very sexy looking. The cleavage revealed by these corsets, especially if worn with a low cut décolletage, was a must-have.

One of the best-selling brands at the time was Bendel’s, an American company based in New York City that sold French lingerie to wealthy Americans on Fifth Avenue, a company whose clientele included Coco Chanel herself. The corsets were made for women with slight, boyish type figures, and flat chest, but this style of corset eventually faded out to make way for corsets that were more accommodating for all figures.

These are our favourites. What are your favourite lingerie pieces from this era? We would like to encourage all you lovely ladies who loved this era and style of lingerie to comment below. We would love to know. xx

1920s Lingerie: The Best of.

1920s Lingerie: The Best Of The Flapper Era