1920s Lingerie: The Best Of The Flapper Era
(This post was originally published in 2017 and updated on December 21st 2021)
The 1920s was an exciting time — the First World War had ended, people were exuberant and there was reason to celebrate. It was called the roaring twenties for good reason: the Great Gatsby, flapper dancers, prohibition, free expression, new dancing styles, the jazz era and radical new ways of dressing. The 1920s ushered in an era of modernism, glamour and liberation like never before.
This freedom was expressed in the way women dressed. A revolution had started — women were allowed to vote and dress how they wanted. Dresses were a little shorter, so legs were shown, and women even dared to dress in suits, which was unheard of at the time. Gone were the days of tight corsets and constricted dresses, and in came slimline silhouette slip dresses adorned in sequins and beads, made for flexibility. Hair was shorter — the pixie cut or short bob was the style of choice — and makeup was bolder and more glamorous.
No other decade in recent history is as well known for its sassiness, glamour, and style. During this time, lingerie took on a life of its own, with highly embellished teddies, see-through négligées, and lace panties. Many of the new lingerie designers were inspired by the movies; this, coupled with a generation of women who had just come through a global war and women's suffrage, created a demand to be noticed as individuals.
The flappers' love of luxury and freedom meant that lingerie was now more than just a functional item. Women wanted to express their sexuality in new ways, and their desires were shown in their choice of lingerie.
Lingerie was lighter — women transitioned from the layers upon layers of petticoats, corsets and very constrictive underwear of the early 1900s to light single slips and bras. Fabrics used were delicate and flowing: silk, satin, shantung, crêpe de Chine, cotton and rayon, at times highly embellished with lace, beading and appliqués. It was a time of self-expression, liberation and glamour.
Olyinka takes a lot of its inspiration from the 1920s, so we wanted to share five of our favourite lingerie styles from that era — styles you can still find today.
1. Stockings
Stockings in the 1920s were the must-have accessory of the time. Gone were the days when stockings were used to warm your legs, or hidden under petticoats — stockings were, in part, there to be noticed. This was the jazz era, and with all the various dance crazes emerging, dresses were lifted and legs shown, so stockings had to look good and be held securely in place by suspenders. Stockings were made from silk, wool, cotton or synthetic rayon, though the most popular fabric for hosiery in the 1920s was lace. A little over six feet (three metres) of lace fabric was required to make one pair.
2. Slips and Step-In Chemises
These lightweight chemise garments were made for comfort and glamour. The desired look at the time was boyish and flat-chested, so slips were designed with a low, straight neckline, held together by thin straps or ribbon, and embellished with lace, ribbon and buttons — far removed from the "push up, bust out" lingerie of the early 1900s. The 1920s slip was made to look delicate, and when combined with stockings it provided the complete look. The step-in chemise was a variation on the slip but with wide leg openings; like the slip, it offered no support. It was just meant to look and feel beautiful.
3. Bandeau Bras and Knickers
The design trend for bras in the early 1920s was the boyish silhouette, made to give the illusion of flattened breasts and a more androgynous look. These bras were called "bandeau" — they had thin shoulder straps and no cups. Women wore bandeau bras over their camisoles and blouses, making their outfits look more fashionable and put together.
Bandeau bras were made from silk, the most popular fabric of the time and easier to clean than cotton or wool. With light support and thin straps embellished with lace, this bra was not flattering or supportive for all breast types — but all was not lost: Maidenform, a bra company founded in 1922, filled the gap by designing bras that provided support for all breast shapes. French or cami knickers, designed like shorts and embellished with buttons, lace or ribbon, made the perfect accompaniment.
4. Pyjamas, Robes and Gowns
In an era when people were carefree and very relaxed, it was not uncommon to find women spending time in their boudoirs, and doing so with style. The smart set would spend hours in delicate outfits that were both elegant and sophisticated. The daytime frock was always chosen with care, as it was seen as a true sign of taste.
Pyjamas and robes were the order of the day, and the more luscious and extravagant the better. Fabrication was very high grade — velvet, or velvet and silk. Ladies wanted glamour, luxury and refinement. Wool, cotton and linen were not enough; women would demand embroidery, sequins or other thread work that enhanced their silhouette without showing through it. Silk was always in abundance, with its soft, lightly velvety texture. The stitching detail was also a symbol of class.
5. Corsets
Corsets or corselettes were made unboned or lightly boned — flexible and far less rigid than the Victorian style corsets of the early 1900s. These were designed to accommodate the new loose, flowing flapper dresses, and were worn from the bust down to the mid-thigh with garters to connect to stockings if required.
This style of corset reflected the age and its freedom of expression, so unlike the corsets of the past, women were able to bend and move around without feeling constricted. They were more streamlined than their predecessors, and the cleavage they revealed — especially worn with a low-cut décolletage — was a must-have.
One of the best-selling brands at the time was Bendel's, an American company based in New York City that sold French lingerie to wealthy Americans on Fifth Avenue, and whose clientele included Coco Chanel herself. Their corsets were made for women with slight, boyish figures, though this style eventually faded out to make way for corsets that accommodated all figures.
These are our favourites. What are your favourite lingerie pieces from this era? We'd love to know — tell us in the comments below. xx
